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New Year – New Camera System (updated new info)

Sunrise at Good Harbor
The sun changes the sky into hues of orange, purple and blue before sunrise at Good Harbor Beach in Gloucester. Fuji X-T3 w/18-55

2018 was a rough year! My Canon gear started to weigh on me (literally) and I began shooting with a smaller aps-c camera, the Sony a6300. This was a very difficult transition for me so let me explain. Since 1979 I have been a hard core Canon disciple. When I started my career my gear of choice was Leica because that is what I owned. It became clear after about a year of use that it was to expensive and was not what I needed as a beginning photojournalist. While photographing the pre-Olympics at Lake Placid in 1979 for some skiing publications, I fell backwards on some ice and crushed the viewfinder on my Leica SL Mot rendering it unusable. This brought me to Eric Wang at the Canon Pro Services booth where he let me borrow a Canon F1 w/motor drive and a 300 f2.8. I was sold! If this was how they treated pros I was in. I traded all my Leica gear and went with Canon for the next 39 years. I was a proponent of Canon shunning anything else and I would tell you about it. That has all changed for me in the past year. I am older and the heavy gear has taken it’s toll. I have had one hip replacement and headed for another. Hence my questioning my photo gear needs. I no longer do daily assignments but I now teach, run workshops and tours, and occasionally do news and sports assignments. So I need gear that is smaller, lighter an costs less but is outstanding.

Don’t get me wrong I LOVE MY CANON GEAR but it simply is weighing me down. I started using the Sony aps-c system because I could adapt my Leica lenses to it. What a great solution to my problem. The gear was small and light but the menu was a nightmare. I bought two lenses a 10-18, and a 16-70. In 35mm terms a 15-27 and a 24-70. Both lenses are f4 very slow for a photojournalist. They worked and did the job and I finally got used to the menu system. Everything seemed on track for a slow move over to Sony. To me the quality of the lenses is sub par though and I have never been happy with them. The camera is too small! So I started to see if the full frame Sony A7 lll was the camera for me and I tried adapting my beloved Canon and Leica lenses to it. The results were good! But the camera, plus adapter, plus lens was rather large with the Canon lenses. Ugggh, so that turned out to be a bust.

I then decided to try out the Fujifilm system. I rented the Fuji X-T3 and the rather large 16-55 from Borrow Lenses. I wanted to see if this large lens was what I was looking for since it was the same size as my Canon 24-70 f4. Same size (77mm) but an f 2.8 and a little lighter. I contacted a friend of mine, Mark Gardner of Summer Sky Digital Media in Marshfield. I call Mark the Fuji Zen Master because he has been using Fuji for a number of years. To my amazement Mark let me borrow a complete system to try out. I got to try out a number of lenses that I would not normally have been able to test with. So after a week of using the X-T3 and a full stable of lenses from the 16 1.4 – 100-400 zoom I came away deciding that Fuji was the way to go. My reasoning was size, weight, and cost.

Over the course of the next week I jumped head first into the Fuji system and Mark was there to help me along the way. It was a great help to have the Zen Master help me through the menu system. So my learning curve was not as steep as if I had just jumped into it. It was great! I got to do some assignments with it and was excited by the ease of use and the quality of the images I was getting. I started out at Duxbury Beach shooting a sunrise.

Duxbury Sunrise
Sunrise at Duxbury Beach shot with the Fuji X-T3 and 50-140 f 2.8
Duxbury Bridge
Duxbury Bridge at sunrise shot with the Fuji X-T3 and 50-140 f 2.8

The first lens I tried was the 50-140 f 2.8 zoom basically the same thing as my Canon 70-200 f 2.8 L ll which is the best lens I own. I was amazed at how light it was and smaller than my Canon tele zoom. So far I was impressed! Then as I was walking back to my car the light started it’s amazing rise and lit up the snow fencing and dunes and I knew that I needed to try out the 16 f 1.4.

Dune grass at sunrise
Dune grass at sunrise shot with the Fuji 16 1.4 wide open. Beautiful out of focus rendering of the snow fence.

Incredible color and a 1.4 the depth of field added another dimension to it. But I knew that it would look different at a smaller f stop so I shot another at f8.

Dune grass at sunrise
Dune grass at sunrise with the Fuji 16 f 1.4 at f 8. A different look same lens.

I had some weekend assignments that were going to be in darkness and I could not wait to try out the X-T3 with the 16-55 and the 16 1.4 lenses. The results were amazing. It was a lobster trap tree lighting. Your basic very dark assignment. So I brought the 16-55 and the 16 1.4 with me to see how they would do. The 16-55 is only an f2.8, which is fast enough for most things but in pitch black I was not sure what would happen. Earlier in the day I shot a gingerbread house contest inside and wide open I could not believe how sharp the results were.

Gingerbread house viewing
A young boy looks over the winning gingerbread house. Shot with the Fuji X-T3 and the 16-55 f 2.8.

The next thing was outside in the dark. Not fun trying to get a good exposure. The Fuji X-T3 was up to the task and gave me some great images. The reddish faces came from a fire trucks tail lights.

Photographing the lobster trap tree
A father photographs the lobster trap tree with his son. Shot with the Fuji X-T3 and 16-55 ISO 3200 1/125 @ 2.8.

The image above was just as the sun was down and I had more light to work with but the light got much worse. The Fuji X-T3 came through again with the 16 1.4.

Lobster trap tree lighting
Musicians sing at the lighting of the Lobster Trap tree in Gloucester. Fuji X-T3 with 16 1.4
Lobster Trap tree ligiting
Musicians sing at the lighting of the Lobster Trap tree in Gloucester. Fuji X-T3 with 16 1.4

Both of these were shot at ISO 8000 1/80s @ 1.4! I was amazed! So the next thing I tried was inside the tree – dark as sin.

Inside the Lobster Trap tree
People wander inside the Lobster Trap tree to look at the lights.

This image was shot at ISO 8000 1/40s @ 1.4. Ok so I was sold right off the bat after seeing these images. The camera was easy to use and boy the 16mm lens (24 in 35mm terms) was the best lens I had shot with in a very long time. But I still had some experimenting to do. I had another assignment later in the week and brought the 16-55 along to see how it would do in tight and weird lighting conditions. It turned out that the light was not real bad and was actually kind of nice. The lens performed flawlessly as did the camera.

Bobbie Gibb
Bobbi Gibb looks over the final clay bust of the female runner statue she has sculpted for The 26.2 Foundation at her studio in Rockport Wednesday, Dec. 12, 2018. [Wicked Local Photo / Kirk R. Williamson]
Bobbie Gibb
Bobbi Gibb talks about the female runner statue she has sculpted for The 26.2 Foundation at her studio in Rockport Wednesday, Dec. 12, 2018. [Wicked Local Photo / Kirk R. Williamson]
One of the things I like about mirrorless cameras is the ability to see in the EVF and in Live View what your exposure will look like. Fuji has T mode which is kind of like TV mode on a Canon except that when used in conjunction with the manual aperture the camera is in your total control. It’s fully manual at this point if you are controlling the ISO. All you have to do is turn the wheel by your thumb and you get to see what your image will look like. I love this feature!

Even though the 16-55 is rather large, used in conjunction with the battery grip on the X-T3 it is an exceptional rig. I loved it. Well at this point I’m starting to think that I need this Fuji system bad. It’s small, light and easy on the pocket book.

So what was holding me back. Well to be honest nothing beats my Canon gear for shooting sports. So I had to try the 50-140 to shoot some hockey because I know what my Canon 7D MK2 and the 70-200 f2.8 L ll can do and it’s exceptional. So I brought it to a hockey game not knowing anything about how to set it up and just started shooting. The results were not impressive. But I was not set up properly.

Shooting sports w the Fuji X-T3
Hockey with the Fuji X-T3 and the 50-140. ISO 6400 1/1000s @ f2.8

The results were ok but not what my Canon can produce.Since then I have seen a whole new light when using the X-T3 to shoot sports. There will be a whole new blog post on shooting sports with the X-T3. I’m excited by what I have discovered and I know you will be too. I wanted to try the 90mm f 2 out and I did for a bit but where I was shooting from was not ideal and I was not setup like I should have been. Now on to the 23 f 1.4 (new info left out of the original post).

I was really excited to try out my all time favorite focal length the 35 mm. So the Fuji 23 f 1.4 was a treat to shoot. My father used to say to me get used to that 50 mm first before we get you into a 35. When I finally did get a 35mm for my 16th birthday it rarely came off my camera. When I started my career the Leica 35mm Summicron was my lens of choice for just about everything. Excited was an understatement. I had the perfect opportunity to test it out, my mother-in-laws 90th birthday party which was held in a rather dark restaurant. Of course I barely knew how to run the camera which meant I had no idea how to use face detection. These next images were taken with the 23 wide open at f1.4. I used the camera the same as before setting the ISO myself and shooting in manual.

90th birthday party
90th birthday party – ISO 1600 1/80 @1.4

This lens is one of Fuji’s first fast primes so it is noisy and a little slow focusing but man is it sharp! Beautiful colors – just wonderful. I never really noticed any of that as I roamed around looking for moments.

Blowing out the candles
Blowing out the candles. My wife moved a little fast so I got some motion in this one. ISO 1600 1/100s @1.4

I felt so at home with this lens. The fast aperture of 1.4 gave me the freedom of shooting at a relatively low ISO and a pretty fast shutter speed. No flash in this type of situation is a great bonus. This was a fun shoot with a well balanced camera with no battery grip. This lens needs to be updated just like the 35 1.4 and the 56 1.2 when that happens I will likely be purchasing it. This last image I was trying to see what the close focus abilities of the lens would be so I practiced on my nieces son.

Baby photos
Baby photos ISO 1600 1/100s @1.4

For an older lens this lens was crazy nice. The color and bokeh were wonderful and it just felt comfortable. It will be in quiver of lenses at some point.

Lets move on to the 90 (137 in 35mm terms). This is a beautiful lens and is on my list for purchase. I did not get to use it that much but boy is it something. It focuses really fast and is a WR lens. The only thing I shot with it was at Duxbury beach and I loved the compression it gave me with an 5.6 aperture setting. I tried some hockey with it as well but I was to far away from the action to make it worthwhile.

Snow fencing at sunrise
Snow fencing at Duxbury beach at sunrise. 1/320s @ 5.6 ISO 200

A lovely lens that I did not get to play with that much. But I know what I need it for and it’s a must purchase.

The last lens I tried out was the 100-400. It’s big, (read; long extended) no doubt about it! But it’s also a huge range in 35mm terms a 152-609 f 4.5 at the low end and 5.6 at the high end. Wow what a range and it has OIS and is WR. You can’t beat that. I’ll be shooting baseball and soccer with this puppy. It is destined to be a favorite in my stable of lenses. The compression is unbelievable and you can handhold this thing which I did because even though the size is quite large (only 77mm, what?) it’s not really that heavy. Sadly I was only able to get a couple of shots with it. One I made while I was chasing a fox that ran by my car as I was putting gear away. He got away – darn it.

Duxbury bridge sunrise
A truck crosses the Duxbury bridge at sunrise, handheld. 1/800s f5 ISO 800 392mm
Thacher Island sunrise
The sun comes up behind some clouds at Thacher Island in Rockport. Tripod, 1/3s @ 5.6 ISO 320,  521mm (35 terms)

It’s been quite a journey over the last month or so and it has resulted in my purchase of a Fuji X-T3 with battery grip, kit lens (18-55) and a like new used 16mm f 1.4.

Now I need to sell all my Canon gear and the little Sony kit I have accumulated. That being said this is what is available for Canon gear if anyone is so inclined.

Canon 5D MK3 and the battery grip, Canon 16-35 f2.8, Canon 24-70 f4, Canon 300 f2.8 and Canon 1.4 ext. The Canon 7D MK2, Canon 70-200 f2.8 L ll, and the Canon 100 f2 will become available later when I have purchased the Fuji gear to replace it.

Stay tuned for the journey to continue. Monthly reports and video’s with Mark Gardner and myself.

 

 

 

 

Five Tips for Consistent Photographic Results

 

New Hampshire stream
Soft light can be beautiful for certain scenes.

Be hyper sensitive to light

This is one of the first things I teach my students. Learn to feel the light. How is it playing on subjects? According to Alfred Eisenstaedt “You sense the light with your eyes and respond with your emotions”. If you are always aware of light and how it reacts to the scene around you your decisions in photographing it are much better. So take the time and look at how light reacts to things around you. Just sitting reading a book, or in your car driving. Once you start really looking at the light you will begin to feel it.

Pre-visualize your subject

This next step is essential in getting consistent results with your photography. If you know what the final result will be you have a better chance of achieving it. I often give my students a 35mm slide mount painted flat black on one side white on the other. This method has been used for many years, mostly with a 4×5 frame card. I have used a larger 3:2 ratio cut out but it is far easier to carry around a small 35mm slide mount. So instead of using your camera use the slide mount to pre-visualize what you are going to shoot.

The critical part is knowing by instinct what you are going after and how you are going to get there. Very seldom do I make decisions while editing. I know before hand as I am shooting what I want. Part of my process is to decide before I shoot how I will crop, and post process the image. At this point it is instinctual. I know my camera and lenses so well that decisions on how the eventual image will look are done before I press the shutter. Now that being said, some tweaking in Lightroom may be required to gain that final vision.

People often ask me about my B&W work and do I shoot everything in color to start. Most of the time I will shoot in color so I don’t lose the option of having both. But I know beforehand what the final result will be. I like to shoot in B&W every once in awhile as it keeps me sharp and making my B&W pre-visualization sharp. With mirrorless cameras it is easier as you are looking at a B&W image in the view finder when set to monochrome.

Dinghy's & Motif
Early morning light gives everything an incredible look.

Your Process

Once you have a repeatable process of making photographs you will begin to have repeatable results. If you learn one thing from this post its that last quote! I tell my students to develop there own repeatable process to making photographs. Let me explain. Do the same thing every time in the same order. Once you have this process down everything else becomes much easier. Here is my process which for you folks might be different.

  1. Find your composition using slide mount or camera
  2. Set your tripod up and mount the camera
  3. Set your focus point
  4. If using filters mount them and figure exposure
  5. Check your composition and focus point
  6. Make your first image
  7. Check preview for exposure and focus
  8. More exposures with different shutter speeds using live view

When I free form shoot, just walking about, my process is different when not using a tripod. I will try to make things easy by shooting in aperture priority and setting the ISO myself keeping in mind what my lowest allowable shutter speed is.

Sunrise reflection
Leading lines – one of my favorite composition rules

Only use two or three composition rules

This may seem obvious to some but to others trying to use to many composition rules messes them up. I am hyper aware of only two. The Rule of Thirds and Leading Lines. My third go to is uneven numbers in a composition usually one or three. Simple and effective. There are tons of others which as far as I’m concerned are all just some form of my first two. So don’t get wrapped up in trying to find weird compositions just pick two or three and things will become a lot easier.

Practice

Just like anything else the more you do something the better you will become at it. I give my students things to practice on that will help them improve. My favorite is to have them tape their zoom lens on a certain focal length. My favorite is to make them shoot at 50mm only. This is a tough focal length since most people shoot with a 28mm as their main lens. Most zoom lenses are 28 – 70 or longer. Once you practice at one focal length you will start to see differently. Another thing I preach is to always have a camera with you. If you do you will always be ready for an image that just begs to be taken. Plus you will be making more images and therefore practicing more. So practice makes perfect is a great motto for photographers. Now that being said don’t practice the same thing all the time. Shoot different things to challenge yourself. Different focal lengths, different lighting, different subjects.

If you keep these five things in mind you are bound to become a more consistently good photographer. The hardest one of these five things is your process. Once you get this one thing down making great images consistently will become easier.

 

 

The iPhone, always ready for a photo

Essex Marsh
Fading afternoon light splashes across the autumn colored Essex marsh lighting up the iconic marsh house.

I have never been a big advocate of iPhoneography. But since some of the new photo apps do such a good job of toning and adjustment I am using my phone more and more. My go to app is the Lightroom Mobile app which I use on my phone and my iPad. I’t just like using Lightroom on my computer and gets better with every update. The image above was made as I was shooting images with a long lens and a friend wanted to know what it looked like. I pulled out my phone and made this image which was immediately synced with Lightroom. So when I got home and opened up Lightroom there was my image.

Rockport Sunset Harbor
Rockport’s inner harbor lights up with a beautiful sunset.

The image above is one of those times when I was glad to have my phone with me. I was with friends and my camera was not with me. So out came my phone and inside the Lightroom app I was able to shoot in raw and then sync to Lightroom on my computer.

Sunset reflection
A Rockport Harbor sunset reflects in a window of the Sandy Bay Yacht Club.

After I made the shot in the harbor I started looking around for another shot of it and this is what I was faced with. Again the phone was ready for the task in raw inside the Lightroom Mobile app.

Motif sunset
Rockport’s famous Motif #1 sits underneath a beautiful sunset at the end of August.

The only thing wrecking this image is the two ultra modern motor boats tied up in front of the Motif. This sunset was absolutely stunning with it’s different colors changing constantly. Again my phone was the only thing I had so out it came and I used the camera inside the Lightroom Mobile app to shoot in raw which gave me a great chance to get the tones I wanted from this image.

So if you use Lightroom CC Basic or Lightroom CC cloud you have access to the Lightroom Mobile app in the Apple app store. It costs nothing and it syncs up your phone photos to your Lightroom catalog as long as you turn on syncing. The mobile app hooks up to your phone when you activate it and allows you to shoot raw images. Inside the Lightroom Mobile app, when you set the app to Pro mode you are able to control the camera’s white balance, ISO, shutter speed, and exposure compensation. This is a huge deal! Imagine this, if you click on the little padlock it locks your exposure. Pretty impressive.

Try it you’ll like it!